The capital of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur is described by its residents - with humor and dubious objectivity - as ‘similar to other cities in Southeast Asia, but better.’ It is a bustling and frenetic place, hot and humid, with a population of nearly two million. Kuala Lumpur is a financially powerful and metropolitan city in an often more conservative country.
Langkawi - sometimes called the Jewel of Kedah - is an archipelago of roughly a hundred small islands off the northwest coast of Malaysia proper. Often referred to as a tropical paradise, it is well-trodden ground for both foreign and domestic tourists.
Eat Malaysian Food
One of the best experiences you can have in Malaysia is trying the amazing variety of multi-ethnic food on offer. Ignorant tourists (like myself) on their first trip to Southeast Asia may find it reminiscent of Indian or Chinese cuisine, a reflection of Malaysia’s melting pot culture. My personal favorites include -
The national dish, nasi lemak, of which I had a vegetarian-style variety. It mostly consists of coconut rice with egg, peanuts, spicy sauce, and small slices of vegetable. Fish and meat eaters combine this with dried anchovies and chicken or beef.
Roti canai is a type of pancake or flatbread. Flaky and thin, it is eaten crepe-like with the fingers. Half the fun is watching it made - the dough is tossed, spun, stretched paper-thin, folded, and grilled. It often comes with curry or a spicy dip.
Curry laksa is a spicy noodle soup made with coconut milk. It can be topped with bean curd, egg, and fish or shellfish. The noodles are usually thick and rice-based, but vermicelli is a popular substitute.
Visit the Petronas Towers
The tallest twin buildings in the world, the Petronas Towers are a famous landmark in the Kuala Lumpur skyline. They were designed to reflect common themes in Islamic art, and opened in 1996.
Tourists may be interested in Suria KLCC shopping center, which is located between the skyscrapers, or the small park behind the towers, complete with fountains, wading pools, and paths among the trees.
Climb to the Batu Caves
One of the most amazing sights in the greater Kuala Lumpur area - about half an hour’s drive from KLCC - is the Batu Caves in Selangor. The highest of the main caves reaches over 300 feet, and the cave in the far back opens to the sky. The natural limestone that forms these caverns is millions of years old.
The Caves are historically a sacred site for Hindus. They host festivals and pilgrimages, priests and devotees. Exactly 272 steps lead up to the cave entrance. Standing guard at the foot of these steps is a gold-painted statue of the Hindu deity Lord Murugan. Completed in the mid-2000’s, it is one of the tallest Hindu statues in the world.
Monkeys of the long-tailed macaque variety are permanent residents of the Caves and surrounding area. They are happy to take food from tourists - sometimes without the tourists’ consent - and can sometimes be seen bickering over heaping platefuls of rice while tiny baby monkeys cling to their chests.
Despite being small and quite cute, they can also be a biting hazard, so it’s best to be cautious.
Swim at Langkawi Beaches
Langkawi has a number of beautiful white-sand beaches. Most of them are a good distance from the airport and main tourist area, and popular northern spots like Tanjung Rhu or Pasir Tengkorak can take more than an hour to reach by car.
Each beach has something special to offer, though most have soft sand, palm trees, picnic tables, and small stalls of novelty items.
Crawl the Bars
On the southwest corner of the island is Pantai Cenang, a popular and touristy area near to the water. Hostels, bars, restaurants, and shops are clustered here near the main road.
Cheap tropical and bohemian-style clothing and jewelry is on offer at most of the stalls, which eventually close as night creeps on and the bars become more lively. It’s a great place to do some quick shopping, then sit for a mixed drink and talk the night away.
Visit the Oriental Village and the Cable Car
The most famous attraction on Langkawi is the cable car or SkyCab on its west coast a 15-minute drive from the airport. The gondolas ascend skyward, stopping first at a Middle Station with access to walking trails. The ride ends at a Top Station on the island’s second highest peak, where tourists can reach the suspended Sky Bridge.
The cable car leaves from the Oriental Village, an outdoor mall and tourism center with souvenir shops, restaurants, and man-made ponds. Its most recent addition is a 3D interactive art museum, featuring more than a hundred paintings.
Down the road a ways is the scenic Telaga Tujuh or ‘Seven Wells’ Waterfall. Surprisingly beautiful and attended by ever-present monkeys, it’s a fun place to wait for the allotted time on your cable car ticket.
Okinawa Prefecture is a chain of four main islands and smaller ‘island groups’ that stretch for over six hundred miles. Okinawa Island is the largest, its natural beauty dominated by the bustling capital Naha and a number of controversial American military bases. A weekend allows you to explore the most basic of tourist attractions, but leaves no opportunity for adventure on the paradises offshore.
Okinawans are known as ‘Ryukyuan’ for the chain of Ryukyu Islands of which they are part. They are quite used to the influx of foreign tourists and famous for being some of the longest-lived people on the planet. Alongside them is the resident United States military, whose presence is keenly felt. The sight of service members and their families is common around the island. Their American-style housing compounds are visible behind chain-link from the highway, and their cars are easy to spot thanks to the distinctive ‘Y’ on the license plate. Even the English-language music station serves both as reminder of home and unintentional source of humor due to its decidedly odd military commercials and public service announcements.
Tip: Stay in a Hostel Hostels in Naha are cheap, centrally located, and generally safe and clean.
It was a hot and muggy November when I arrived. I took a bus from the airport into the city, and spent some time trying to find my hostel. The staff at the Guesthouse Okinawa Monogatari were friendly and welcoming. The dorms had better security than most hostels, and the beds came with privacy curtains.
Naha has a half-tropical feel that many foreigners find incongruous to their preconceived image of Japan. We see the country in films as covered in rice fields and bamboo, mountainous, boasting festivals in summer and cherry blossoms in spring. We’re not taught to expect Naha’s palm trees, beaches, or tropical skirts being sold to tourists along the streets.
Habu-shu or ‘snake liquor’ is sold in shops along the main road. The giant jars of alcohol contain a coiled habu snake - deadly pit vipers native to southern Japanese islands - with its mouth open and fangs out, as if ready to strike. A tempting drink for someone seeking an exotic experience, at least until I learned the somewhat horrifying methods used to create it.
Tip: Rent a Car The bus and monorail system in Naha is clean and safe, but for anyone wanting to explore outside of the main city, renting a cheap car is the easiest - and arguably only - way to properly do so.
The next morning I enjoyed a complimentary pancake breakfast and made friends with a cheerful Japanese guest in the hostel common room.
My travel partner arrived around noon with our rental car, and we settled on a small parking lot near our hostel. The system here was a complicated one; first one parks their car in one of the tightly-packed spaces, then gets the attention of an elderly woman living on the second floor above the parking space. She sends down a bucket on a string, into which you deposit your car keys. When you wish to retrieve your car, the bucket descends again; you give her the money, and get the keys back in return.
Then we set off to explore Okinawa Island properly.
Our first stop that morning was Shuri-jo or Shuri Castle. Built in the 1300’s and a former jewel of the Ryukyu Kingdom, much of it was destroyed during WWII and rebuilt in the 1990’s.
The castle is pretty, if somewhat standard in size. The patterns painted on its walls differ from the usual Japanese castle aesthetic, outlining an unexpected contrast between Japanese and specifically Okinawan culture. We admired it, but decided against paid admission to the central courtyard, which is visible from afar if you take the footpath that circumnavigates the walls.
The castle also hosts frequent demonstrations of traditional and beautiful Okinawan dances.
The beaches of Okinawa Island cannot compare to those of smaller islands like Miyako-jima and Ishigaki, so we simply chose the one most readily accessible.
Araha Beach is not the prettiest or most unique stretch of coastline I have ever visited, but lying on the warm sand was a treat for mid-November, and there was some interesting scenery offshore. It seemed popular with foreign couples and their children - we saw a number of the ‘Y’ plated cars in the parking lot - but was far from swarmed, likely due to the time of year.
Relax (Massage and Hot Spring)
One of the things I most looked forward to in Okinawa was getting a massage, and we decided on the female-run, well-reviewed Secret Garden Aromatherapy Salon. Half an hour from central Naha, it was a clean and tranquil little place, with very skilled service for a very reasonable price. They cater to women and couples only. They worked magic, fixing months of back pain in under an hour. It was a revitalizing experience, and a relaxing end to the day.
We started the next morning at an onsen or Japanese hot spring.
Bathers with tattoos such as myself face something of a challenge, as hot springs generally ban us from using the facilities. This is so they can refuse - without explicitly stating so - to cater to the yakuza, or Japanese mafia. Of course, it is irresponsible to flout a country’s rules as a foreigner, and some hot springs will forcibly eject tattooed persons from the baths. On the other hand, tourists are very obviously not members of the Japanese mafia, and the country is beginning to relax its rules for foreigners, especially since smaller tattoos can be covered by a strategically-placed towel.
We decided on Ryukyu Onsen Senagajima Hotel, slightly pricey but not far from Naha. The morning rush cleared out around 8 AM, and we had the place entirely to ourselves. Though not large, the onsen was almost entirely salt-water - a rare treat. It had a number of fun baths, pools, and enormous clay pots suitable for a single person to soak in. There was also a standing pool, which submerged me up to my ribs and was situated overlooking the ocean. The sea view was gorgeous.
Churaumi Aquarium lies on a peninsula one-and-a-half hours north of Naha. Once the largest aquarium in the world, it boasts a nice collection of aquatic animals and a cute gift shop.
The range of sea life is fascinating, and the whale sharks are especially stunning in their gorgeous main tank. However, while the sea creatures look healthy, their tanks are not large in comparison to their body size. Some tiny creatures in side-exhibits even seem to reside in fish-bowls.
There is also a shark ‘study’ room. Despite the fact that humans slaughter thousands of sharks daily, the room focuses almost entirely on shark dissection rather than preservation. More of the room is devoted to shark meat delicacies than educating visitors on natural shark behavior.
I also must unfortunately give a complete thumbs-down to Cafe Ocean Blue, the aquarium’s only restaurant. Their literal only option for non-meat-eaters was onion rings. The pasta, shrimp rice, and even corn soup (???) included meat. The staff was very kind about trying to assist me, but there was not much they could do. On the plus side, the cafe was directly beside the beautiful main tank. It provided a welcome distraction from my hunger pangs and mediocre onion rings.
Naha has a number of interesting restaurants, bars, and clubs.
Our first night was concluded with a visit to Bacar Okinawa, a lovely pizza parlor. From the counter you can see chefs making and baking some of the best pizza in Japan. The mixed drinks are also delicious, and the service very nice. Go early or make a reservation - they were full except for a few pre-booked seats, and only let us kip there provided we finished eating before the next customers were due.
The next night we spent several hours at Mafali Cafe, close to our hostel. It was a very nice African-themed restaurant and bar with good food and fantastic drinks. I recommend the cheese platter.